My next blog post is going to be epic, so I thought I'd warm you up to the job with a brief waffle covering a few bits and pieces I've done over the last few weeks before getting stuck into "the main event".
Childcare, work and life, coupled with extreme car death have meant that free time and (in many ways more critically) transportation have been in short supply. So my climbing hits have on the whole been brief and local. I've even had the opportunity to re-enact my student climbing days by cycling to local crags.
Anyway on with the numbers and names, first up the fabulously obscure Warland Quarry. I've recently done two new lines here. Both fall into the same "short, gearless slab with unpleasant landing" category.
Twenty20 (E6 6b)
A slightly squeezed in line just right of the line of aid bolts. Starting at two obvious chipped holds climb directly up the
steep slab. Low in the grade but the landing is a bit of a shocker!! With a team of spotters and a bunch of pads this could
well be a highball??
Face of Grace (E7 6c)
Climb the line of old aid bolts on the lower tier. A thin and technical
steep slab solo (you could clip the bolts I suppose but they look
rubbish and I think I might take then out). Only short (~6 metres) but
the landing is a bit shocking. The climbing eases near the top and with a
bunch of pads and spotters it might be a highball??
Here's a rubbish photo to show the lines:
And here's a video of Adam Hughes making the 2nd ascent of Twenty20:
Twenty20 (E6 6b) from nik jennings on Vimeo.
He also repeated Face of Grace, but I'd had to head home so didn't get to film the ascent.
Then I was back to Summit Quarry. Andy Tappa had tried Pylon Direct when I did the first ascent of Responsible Parenting and he was keen for a rematch. So me and Sam trudged up there with him and he did this:
Pylon Direct (E6 6c) from nik jennings on Vimeo.
That was a fair old bit of airtime, but he luckily walked away with a slightly sore ankle, one to come back to...
Whilst there I thought I'd try something. There was space for a new line, it's a bit of a filler-in completists tick but hey-ho...
Lines In The Sand (E6 6c)
Start as for Jaggernath but pretty much straight away head rightwards
and upwards via a technical sequence to join Pylon Direct at the
positive crack sidepull holds. Finish as for Pylon Direct.
And here's a little topo:
Yellow - Jaggernath (E4 6b)
Purple - Lines In The Sand (E6 6c)
Blue - Pylon Direct (E6 6c)
Red - Responsible Parenting (E7 6c)
Anyway consider that a warm-up, long blog post coming up soon, you have been warned...